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My Original GC-Video & Wasp Fusion hardware designs.

Discussion in 'Tutorials, Guides & Manuals' started by citrus3000psi, Jun 16, 2017.

  1. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Member

    Joined:
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    I'm finally able to get this content back. Here is my original designs and BOM.

    This post was in a total mess with two projects and updates going on at the same time. I've separated the projects, and have reordered things a little bit. I recommend reading everything as there are bits and pieces in each post that might help you build these. I'd also recommend reading through the entire thread, as there might be some important information said.


    ORIGINAL POST:

    There was some talk in @Unseen gcvideo thread. I've deceived to make a new thread, because I've also been designing items for the wasp fusion/wii key clone

    There is no more news on me getting the HDMI board to work. I need to order more parts to populate the board and test again. However I've designed some QSBs this week. I just placed an order on osh park moments. Hopefully these boards are successful. I'm exceeding there design limits, hopefully the fab house can handle it. I think they will be fine.



    HDMI QSB:
    [​IMG]

    I've had a wasp fusion sitting in the corner all lonely for awhile now and decided i'd throw it in. I could do the wire method, but eh I like things to look nice even if they'll never see light again. I want to retain the DVD drive with the wasp. So I've designed two QSB's with 32 pin FFC connectors. The one is similar to megalomaniac on gc-forever.com but slightly different because my design is using castellations. You will have to remove the dvd filters on the board for this qsb to work. I like this design because it also simulates cutting the traces when keeping the dvd drive.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This last QSB, 3.3 or GND will not need to be wired if you are using the DVD QSB. The DVD QSB supplies the mod chip with power and ground.

    Here is how the QSB look placed on the Mainboard:

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully more stuff in the coming weeks.

    HDMI STUFF:
    EDIT 10-20-2016- HDMI BOM + OSH LINKS for XC3S50A
    OSH Park links + BOM for HDMI Board & QSB & Spacer
    This board was designed for the XC3S50A chip. If you want to use the XC3S200A chip; I have another board but I still need to assemble and test it. It uses a different QSB.

    I'm not responsible if your gamecube messes up or this doesn't work for you etc. I'll help the best I can, but this board requires precise soldering skills. Leaded solder/temp control iron/microscope to inspect/check are required for something like this.

    All part numbers are digikey. All caps/resistors are 0603, HDMI pitch is .4mm So its pretty small.
    QSB: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/rSbLyyap
    QSB BOM:
    U1: 576-2313-ND
    U2: 296-30109-1-ND
    C1: .1uf 0603
    C2: 10uf 0603
    FFC Connector: A100297CT-ND

    Main Board: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dis53DdW
    Main Board BOM:
    C1/C2/C3/C4/C5/C8: .1uf 0603
    R2: 330 0603
    R3/R4: 4.7K 0603
    R5/R6: 10K 0603
    R7: 180 0603
    JP1: 4.7uf 0603
    FFC Connector: A100297CT-ND
    IC: XC3S50A
    HDMI: A107963CT-ND

    Flash: 557-1583-5-ND
    FFC Cable: WM11359-ND

    Spacer: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/syjMBCpJ

    I program the board using @happy_bunny method. Assemble the entire board. Do connect anything to JP1 or connect it to the Gamecube. Power the board with the programmer. Program board, cut trace in between pads on JP1 (Be careful and do it slowly. The 5v trace runs up next it. Don't cut the 5v line for obvious reasons). Solder 4.7uf on JP1 after programming is done.

    You are not meant to solder in the programming header. Just hold it with your hand while you program. If you solder in a header, you will have to remove it because it will get in the way of installation.

    When you solder the QSB on, you might need to remove a little bit of solder using braid around the outside pads. You want the QSB to sit flat on the mainboard. There is soldermask over the entire bottom surface so you DO NOT need to worry about putting some time of insulation between the board and QSB.

    I'll add pictures later of the install etc.


    EDIT 10-21-2016 - HDMI INSTALL PICTURES

    Here are install pictures. The install is somewhat tedious. This is not going to be a step by step, more just a summary guide of what I did. You might have a better way. To run the FFC cable you need access to underneath the DVD drive and to the bottom side of the main board. The way the gamecube is assembled this makes it impossible. So we need to change some things up.

    DVD drive removed from its mounting, HDMI mounted. I test fit the hdmi board and made marks. The HDMI board fits snuggly into the back plastic thing. (At this point I have already cut a hole in the back of the plastic for the HDMI connector.)


    [​IMG]

    Bottom side of the metal plate:
    [​IMG]

    Remount DVD drive

    [​IMG]

    This is the bottom plate. Notice I have all the screw feet removed that mount the heatsink. I also have notched the left side. The FFC cable routes though there.

    [​IMG]

    Use small nuts/washers/bolts to the secure the heatsink to the mainboard. You don't need to overkill tighten the nuts. Once the heatsink is secure. Insert the Mainboard into the DVD drive. Route the FFC cable and tape down.

    [​IMG]

    Attach the back plastic piece on now and then drop the entire assembly into the bottom plastic base.

    ***This picture does not show the back plastic piece installed. You can't install the back plastic piece with the main assembly in the bottom case. It has to be install before hand.

    [​IMG]

    That's pretty much it, screw everything down and put the top cover on.


    EDIT 11-21-2016 - GC HDMI for XC3S200A WORKING!
    I finally put together my design for the S200A. All went smoothly.

    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/IEGZDBkR

    [​IMG]

    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DPriF0qS

    [​IMG]


    The bill of materials are pretty much identical to the list below. Except this uses 20pin FCC connectors/cable. There is one less .1uf cap. Didn't have space for it. :rolleyes:


    EDIT 12-19-2016 - Final thoughts about HDMI with XCS200A - BOM + OSH LINKS
    Some final thoughts in regards to the HDMI with the XCS200A

    I forgot to ADD C1 and C2 silkscreen to the QSB. C1 is below U1 and C2 is to the left of U2
    QSB: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DPriF0qS
    QSB BOM:
    U1: 576-2313-ND
    U2: 296-30109-1-ND
    C1: .1uf 0603
    C2: 10uf 0603
    FFC Connector: A100287CT-ND


    For some reason, OSH park does not show the orientation silkscreen dot correctly for the Main the IC. The dot/pin1 is next to JP1.

    Also, JP1 has a trace connecting the two pads. You need to cut this trace and solder the 4.7u cap after programming.

    Main Board: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/IEGZDBkR
    Main Board BOM:
    C1/C3/C4/C5/C8: .1uf 0603
    R2: 330 0603
    R3/R4: 4.7K 0603
    R5/R6: 10K 0603
    R7: 180 0603
    JP1: 4.7uf 0603
    FFC Connector: A100287CT-ND
    IC: 122-1594-ND
    HDMI: A107963CT-ND

    Flash: 557-1583-5-ND
    FFC Cable: WM11363-ND

    Spacer (Required for install): https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/syjMBCpJ

    One more thing. The FFC connector needs to be shielded. Unshielded 480p games sometimes glitch. Sometimes not. But if the cable is shielded you will have a 100% success rate.
    I looked into a place to buy shielded cables but couldn't find anything that wasn't custom. I cut a long strip of foil tape and wrap the cable. I then wrap the cable in kapton. So there isn't any shorts when its next to the main board. You do not need to ground the cable. The foil is enough to block the interference. I believe most interference comes from the DVD drive. So I also put kapton over the DVD drive ribbon connector and then put foil over that. It will make sense when you are assembling.

    I also use 2mm screws to hold the heatsink on. Keep the screw short that is close to the QSB. The ribbon cable will pass over it. The other screw lengths don't matter as much. 2mm screws with washers work to hold the main PCB in place. 3mm screws should work as well.

    This board does NOT have JTAG pinouts. Only SPI, just an FYI

    I've built 4 of these cubes now and they all work perfectly using the above methods.

    I have another one to assemble soon. I will post a more detailed step by step install guide.

    WKF/WASP STUFF:

    EDIT 10-25-2016 - WKF/WASP

    I got my new cube in with the correct IPL and had a successful test with the HOST QSB board. So this board is pretty much a go. I just made some design changes to it and ordered another set of three boards. I'm confident the new changes won't cause any problems so I'm releasing it.

    On this revision, I've changed the board design to let wii-28/gc-1 pin to get passed through for audio streaming from the dvd player. So you will have to leave 1 dvd filter in place when you install the board. This won't effect the wiikey in anyway.

    If you use my DVD QSB as well, you wont have to hook up the 3.3v and GND. And if you setup the autoboot to swiss you wont need the P29 pad either. Only pads that will be used are the LID. The others are there for convenience/testing purposes etc.

    The DVD QSB I made a major change to last week. So I'm not going to release it next week until I can confirm it working. But here is the Host QSB:

    QSB:
    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/3oHakCFx

    BOM
    FFC connector: Digikey part A120671CT-ND


    EDIT 11-09-2016 - WKF/WASP QSB LINKS + INFO
    I have WKF/WASP QSB working with DVD Audio Streaming via QSB

    Here are the two OSH Park links:

    WKF/Wasp Host QSB 2.3
    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/3oHakCFx

    WKF/Wasp DVD QSB 1.4
    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/NIwAEeNW

    I have been using the standard Osh Park thickness on these.

    I will post BOM and install pictures in the next few days. Stay tuned

    EDIT 11-11-2016 - WKF/WASP QSB Details
    Here are both QSB Installeds. My Wasp has firmware 1.0 so it has autoboot. This is why Pin29 is grounded. The lid switch is currently bridgde so the Wasp thinks the lid is closed. I will eventually unbridge this and connect to the real lid switch on the cube. The wasp is powered by small 3.3 voltage regulator (digikey part # 296-15819-1-ND) This keeps the install pretty clean, you can however not install this VREG and power the wasp by pulling 3.3v from anywhere on the cube and running that to the 3.3v pad on the host QSB.

    [​IMG]

    Close up, To install the Host QSB you will have to move all but one of the DVD filters. This simulates the trace cutting as well.

    [​IMG]

    This is how the wasp lays down. Make sure it clears the heat sink standoffs. These are the only length cables I had but you could use longer cables and move the wasp down to a different location. Put something over the top of the wasp to to isolate it from shorting out.

    [​IMG]

    You will have to make some cuts on the metal case to fit

    [​IMG]

    Thats pretty much the install. Put everything back together.


    EDIT 02-27-2017 - WKF/WASP MicroSD Front Mount Board

    I designed a new sd card (micro) for the wasp. It solders directly to the bottom of the gc mainboard between two points. I used a file and small drill bit to create the cut out for the micro sd.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Silk screen is hard to see but the components are:
    3x 68.1K Resistor 0603
    6x 22.1 Resistor 0603
    1x 470K Resistor 0603
    1x 15K Resistor 0603
    1x 1u Ceramic Cap 0603
    1x 10u Ceramic Cap 0603

    Digikey parts:
    SD Card: WM6825CT-ND
    FFC Connector: A100283CT-ND

    Osh park Link https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/IrZlIu1M
     
    Element18592 and GeistvonPA like this.

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